Cognac, France - What to See and What to Do By Rachel Loos
As you approach the town of Cognac in the Charente, the scenery changes from fields of grazing cattle to neat rows of vines, stretching as far as the eye can see. The town is famous all over the world thanks to cognac, the grape-based spirit that has been made here for the past 300 years - French writer Victor Hugo called it the 'liquor of the gods'.
Cognac is a town full of history. France's first king, François 1 was born here in 1494. A contemporary of King Henry VIII of England he is considered France's first Renaissance king. He gave the town the right to trade salt using the river, so creating the foundations of its commercial success that was further enhanced when it went into cognac production.
The spirit was first made as an alternative to wine as a preventive drink against scurvy - wine was difficult to transport and took up a lot of space. Double-distilled and turned into brandy (cognac) it was more compact and more stable so travelled well but also tasted better after being aged in oak casks.
Today the town of Cognac continues to revolve around the spirit, its fortunes rising and falling according to the popularity of the drink. What never changes is the old town, where the narrow streets are a mix of narrow medieval timber framed houses that once housed the workers and the grander mansions of the wealthy merchants. Look out for the salamander that adorns many of the homes and was the insignia of King Francois 1.
Down by the river are the blackened chais (warehouses) that still store barrels of cognac, their discoloured state caused by the alcohol evaporating into the surrounding air. The locals call this 'the angels taking their share' - sadly, the truth is less romantic as the culprit is a tiny fungus that thrives in the alcohol-laden atmosphere.
THINGS TO SEE & DO
A cognac tour: one of most popular tourist attractions is a tour of one - or more! - of the many cognac producers to learn the history of cognac, how it is made plus enjoy a tasting or two. Most of the big names offer a tour and it's also worth asking the tourist office about tours of the surrounding vineyards and smaller producers where you can also buy direct.
Château de Cognac: the birthplace of Francois 1 is now called Chateau de Cognac. During its illustrious history it hosted the marriage of Richard the Lion Heart's son to Aurélie de Cognac in 1190. During the French Revolution it was sold as national property and bought in 1795 by cognac producer Baron Otard. Today it is the headquarters of Otard cognac. A tour includes some of the rooms of the château.
Take a cruise on a gaberre: the traditional flat-bottomed oak boat that once used to transport cognac, salt and other produce, today transports visitors along the Charente - a great way to see the town from the river. Tickets are available at the tourist office.
Cognatheque: a permanent exhibition devoted to cognac - see and buy 450 different cognacs as well as 50 types of pineau, the delicious aperitif of the Charente. 8 place Jean-Monnet; tel 05 45 82 43 31. Also at Le Musee des Arts du Cognac learn more about the history and economic impact of the Cognac industry. Les Remparts - Place de la Salle Verte, Cognac. Work of local artists and collections of art nouveaux glass can be seen at Le Musée d'art et d'histoire; 48 bd Denfert Rochereau, Cognac.
Rachel is editor of http://www.discover-poitou-charentes.com/, helping you make the most of your trip to the beautiful Poitou-Charentes region of France.
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